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Panerai LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS CHRONO FLYBACK
TOP
Panerai LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYS CHRONO FLYBACK
15,900 
Seller
RIVIERAWATCH
55
FR
Richard Mille 18k R/G Diamond Set Skeleton Dial Extra Flat...
TOP
Richard Mille 18k R/G Diamond Set Skeleton Dial Extra Flat...
58,044 
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
82
UK
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ultra Slim Ultraflach 18K Gold...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ultra Slim Ultraflach 18K Gold...
2,490 
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
105
DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph - 26400ro
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph - 26400ro
33,500 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
64
IT
Bulgari Power Reserve
TOP
Bulgari Power Reserve
5,790 
Seller
TodoReloj
242
ES
Cartier Pasha 42mm Night&Day Time Zone  Watch  2937
TOP
Cartier Pasha 42mm Night&Day Time Zone Watch 2937
10,800 
Seller
della Rocca gioielli - Carol Exclusive
92
IT
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold
33,353 
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Chopard Happy Sport Chronograph Rose Gold Diamonds 42 mm (Full...
TOP
Chopard Happy Sport Chronograph Rose Gold Diamonds 42 mm (Full...
8,900 
Seller
Kleen Edelmetalen
113
NL
Cartier Santos Dumont Power Reserve
TOP
Cartier Santos Dumont Power Reserve
13,800 
Free shipping
Seller
Turelojya SL
130
ES
Zenith Elite HW Power Reserve Limited Edition No. 1480
TOP
Zenith Elite HW Power Reserve Limited Edition No. 1480
3,424 
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
127
NL
Rolex Day Date  Classic Champagne  dial box / papers
TOP
Rolex Day Date Classic Champagne dial box / papers
9,950 
Free shipping
Seller
10PAST10.COM
92
NL
Cartier TANK 18K YELLOW GOLD 750 VINTAGE
TOP
Cartier TANK 18K YELLOW GOLD 750 VINTAGE
2,990 
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
105
DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Blu Dial - 26331or
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Blu Dial - 26331or
41,500 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
64
IT
Bulova Accutron 18K NOS new old stock
Bulova Accutron 18K NOS new old stock
2,600 
Seller
Harri Asunta
6
FI
Vacheron Constantin Constantin Patrimony Retrograde NOS  Watch...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Constantin Patrimony Retrograde NOS Watch...
29,500 
Seller
della Rocca gioielli - Carol Exclusive
92
IT
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
26,057 
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Cvstos EVOSQUARE 45 LIMITED EDITION CHRONOGRAPH  18K Pinkgold 750
TOP
Cvstos EVOSQUARE 45 LIMITED EDITION CHRONOGRAPH 18K Pinkgold 750
17,000 
Seller
LUXUS RITTER GmbH & Co. KG
51
DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar
10,477 
Seller
Heritage Jewelry and Loan
5
US
Chopard La Strada White Gold Diamonds 18 krt (Full Set)
TOP
Chopard La Strada White Gold Diamonds 18 krt (Full Set)
11,000 
Seller
Kleen Edelmetalen
113
NL
Patek Philippe Calatrava 2481 King Size
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava 2481 King Size
16,000 
Free shipping
Seller
MASTROLORENZI S.A.S DI MATTIA MASTROLORENZI & CO.
47
IT
Rolex LADY DATEJUST DIAMANT 18K GOLD GELBGOLD SERVICE 01/2017
TOP
Rolex LADY DATEJUST DIAMANT 18K GOLD GELBGOLD SERVICE 01/2017
6,790 
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
105
DE
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phase In White Gold - 5205g
TOP
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phase In White Gold - 5205g
34,900 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
64
IT
Omega Vintage 14K Yellow Gold
TOP
Omega Vintage 14K Yellow Gold
695 
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
127
NL
Patek Philippe Swiss Made 18k Solid Gold Luxury Dress Watch...
TOP
Patek Philippe Swiss Made 18k Solid Gold Luxury Dress Watch...
8,886 
Seller
GMTSKY
192
US
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Gold 3DTP Carbon
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Gold 3DTP Carbon
35,437 
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Bulgari TUBOGAS SQUARE
TOP
Bulgari TUBOGAS SQUARE
7,400 
Seller
ANNIBALI&CO
60
IT
Cartier Tank Francaise 2403 18k White Gold & Diamonds
TOP
Cartier Tank Francaise 2403 18k White Gold & Diamonds
7,501 
Seller
Phigora
73
US
Chopard Imperiale Chronograph Yellow Gold Diamonds 32 mm
TOP
Chopard Imperiale Chronograph Yellow Gold Diamonds 32 mm
29,000 
Seller
Kleen Edelmetalen
113
NL
Blancpain Villeret Phase de Lune
TOP
Blancpain Villeret Phase de Lune
6,254 
Free shipping
Seller
Rent a Box Schmuck und Uhren AG
 
CH
Breguet Classique 5177 Weißgold/18kt.   BESTZUSTAND  New Service
TOP
Breguet Classique 5177 Weißgold/18kt. BESTZUSTAND New Service
11,950 
Seller
Uhren Struck
77
DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chrono Rose Gold - 26320or
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chrono Rose Gold - 26320or
35,900 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
64
IT
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Automatic 18K Gold
1,748 
Seller
Vintage Watch Services
127
NL
Breitling 60s Chronomat 217012 Solid 18k Gold Swiss Mens...
TOP
Breitling 60s Chronomat 217012 Solid 18k Gold Swiss Mens...
7,649 
Seller
GMTSKY
192
US
Rolex Day-Date II / President II LC 100 MwSt ausweisbar
TOP
Rolex Day-Date II / President II LC 100 MwSt ausweisbar
27,900 
Seller
Crizzi Watches & Jewellery
6
DE
Cartier Tank Francaise Lady 18K Gold Klassik Dresswatch Top...
TOP
Cartier Tank Francaise Lady 18K Gold Klassik Dresswatch Top...
4,199 
Free shipping
Seller
Uhrenkapital
193
DE
Omega Constellation Pie Pan 18K Gold Automatic Service 11/17
TOP
Omega Constellation Pie Pan 18K Gold Automatic Service 11/17
3,990 
Free shipping
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
105
DE
Chopard L.U.C Prince Foundation Yellow Gold 18 krt (Lim. 001/200)
TOP
Chopard L.U.C Prince Foundation Yellow Gold 18 krt (Lim. 001/200)
8,900 
Seller
Kleen Edelmetalen
113
NL
IWC Doppelchronograph 750 Gold
TOP
IWC Doppelchronograph 750 Gold
13,950 
Seller
Uhrenhandel Unrecht An- und Verkauf von Uhren, Schmuck und Gold
DE
IWC Portugieser 8 tage 75th  Anniversary - Ltd. Edition
TOP
IWC Portugieser 8 tage 75th Anniversary - Ltd. Edition
15,400 
Seller
Spliedt & Cie GmbH
 
DE
Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 175th Anniversary  - 5975g
TOP
Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 175th Anniversary - 5975g
67,500 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
64
IT
Patek Philippe Gondolo 5135R - Full Set - Like New
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo 5135R - Full Set - Like New
28,500 
Seller
Paradiso Luxury Srl
11
IT
Chopard Classic Slim
TOP
Chopard Classic Slim
2,800 
Free shipping
Seller
Bernardo Antichita'
11
IT
Camy vintage BIG 18ct solid  golden chronograph , serviced
Camy vintage BIG 18ct solid golden chronograph , serviced
595 
Seller
hankkija ou
558
FI
Rolex Day-Date 18039 WG 18k  Single Quick Vintage
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 18039 WG 18k Single Quick Vintage
12,190 
Free shipping
Seller
Uhrtreff
70
DE
Hublot Classic Fusion  King 42mm, Rosé Gold
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion King 42mm, Rosé Gold
10,500 
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesNorte
19
ES
Cartier Tank Américaine
TOP
Cartier Tank Américaine
5,300 
Free shipping
Seller
IL CORDUSIO SAS
 
IT
Blancpain Villeret Ultra Slim 18k Yellow Gold 34mm G
TOP
Blancpain Villeret Ultra Slim 18k Yellow Gold 34mm G
3,875 
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
9
NL
Bulgari Tubogas Bangle 18K Yellow & White Gold BB262T
TOP
Bulgari Tubogas Bangle 18K Yellow & White Gold BB262T
3,449 
Seller
May Street Services LLC
41
US
IWC 524102 Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette
IWC 524102 Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette
55,000 
Seller
Premium Watches
10
FI
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5960R - Full Set - Like New
TOP
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5960R - Full Set - Like New
45,500 
Seller
Paradiso Luxury Srl
11
IT
Baume & Mercier Riviera Complications Triple Date Automatic
TOP
Baume & Mercier Riviera Complications Triple Date Automatic
3,700 
Free shipping
Seller
Bernardo Antichita'
11
IT
Zenith vintage 18ct golden classic , serviced
Zenith vintage 18ct golden classic , serviced
325 
Seller
hankkija ou
558
FI
Daniel Roth Academic Ellipsocurvex Chronomax Masters Chronograph
Daniel Roth Academic Ellipsocurvex Chronomax Masters Chronograph
12,900 
Seller
Luxury Watch Helsinki
 
FI
Ulysse Nardin Ulysse One
Ulysse Nardin Ulysse One
20,900 
Seller
Kellokonttori
9
FI
Cartier 18K Yellow Gold Panthere Quartz 22mm w/ Custom...
TOP
Cartier 18K Yellow Gold Panthere Quartz 22mm w/ Custom...
5,601 
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
US
Waltham 14k Pocket watch 199038 Trade/Offer
Waltham 14k Pocket watch 199038 Trade/Offer
700 
Seller
Chrono Finland
16
FI
Omega 9ct
Omega 9ct
780 
Seller
KoKo-huolto
 
FI
Rolex 118235F Day-Date Pink Gold, with diamonds and rubies
Rolex 118235F Day-Date Pink Gold, with diamonds and rubies
22,450 
Free shipping
Seller
Premium Watches
10
FI
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Team Alinghi - LIMITED 600pz
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Team Alinghi - LIMITED 600pz
33,900 
Seller
Paradiso Luxury Srl
11
IT
Corum Buckingham Yellow Gold
TOP
Corum Buckingham Yellow Gold
3,700 
Free shipping
Seller
Bernardo Antichita'
11
IT
Atlantic rare Art Deco 18ct gold, serviced
Atlantic rare Art Deco 18ct gold, serviced
225 
Seller
hankkija ou
558
FI
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus
20,900 
Seller
Luxury Watch Helsinki
 
FI

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.
Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.
A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.
A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.
Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.
Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.
Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.
An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.
The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.
The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.
Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.
The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.
Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.
Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.