Cartier watches

Cartier: Inventor of the Wristwatch

Cartier has a long tradition in watchmaking and sets standards in design. At the beginning of the 20th century, Cartier presented its first square dial with the Roman numeralsin Art Deco style that would become typical of the Maison. The Santos, which was developed in 1904 especially for the Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, remains one of Cartier’s most famous wristwatches to this day. The same can be said of the Tank. This rectangular timepiece made its debut in 1917 and has since become an industry icon. Over the decades, it has attracted many prominent wearers, such as Andy Warhol, Elton John, Jacques Chirac, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Calvin Klein, and Yves Saint Laurent.

Other Popular Watch Collections From Cartier

Other popular watch collections from the house of Cartier are the Pasha, Ballon Bleu, and Panthère. Cartier has watches with special complications in the Privé collection. The brand’s product portfolio also includes numerous bejeweled watches, such as the Haute Joaillerie or Indomptables de Cartier. The watches in these collections are richly decorated with gemstones and underscore Cartier’s long tradition as one of the world’s most renowned jewelry manufacturers. It is therefore not surprising that Cartier watches enjoy great popularity among collectors and watch enthusiasts as well as fashion-conscious contemporaries. Many of the models in the Maison’s range are aimed at women, which sets Cartier apart from most other luxury watchmakers.

Cartier has been equipping its watches primarily with in-house calibers for several years. However, quartz movements and calibers from the movement manufacturer ETA are also used.

Overview of the Most Important Cartier Models

• Cartier Santos: first pilot’s watch in the world, square dial
• Cartier Tank: design icon with a rectangular case and dial
• Cartier Ballon Bleu: dress watch with a round case and integrated crown
• Cartier la Panthère: luxurious watches set with precious gems
• Cartier Crash – classic with a “Dalí” case, very popular with collectors

A Brief Look at the History of Cartier

The French jeweler and watch manufacturer Cartier has history, tradition, and experience stretching back over more than 160 years. In 1847, 28-year-old Louis-François Cartier took ownership of the Parisian jewelry store run by his mentor, Adolphe Picard. He quickly established himself in the French city,

In 1874, his son Alfred joined the business and expanded its watch department. His sons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques continued this trend and established Cartier as an international company. Louis Cartier took over the headquarters in Paris, while Pierre Cartier ran the business in New York, and Jacques took charge in London.

Cartier focused its attention on wristwatch production early on. This made the Maison one of the pioneers in the field. As a result, diamond-studded ladies’ wristwatches could be admired in Cartier’s showcases as early as 1888.

After a somewhat more turbulent phase in the 1960s and 70s, during which the brand changed hands several times, Cartier was taken over by the luxury goods group Richmond in the 1990s.

Historic Cartier Milestones

• 1847: Louis-François Cartier founds the company
• 1888: Cartier introduces their first wristwatches
• 1904: Development of the Santos
• 1917: Development of the Tank
• 1931: Debut of water-resistant wristwatches
• 1985: The Pasha enters series production
• 2007: Introduction of the Ballon Bleu
• 2009: Cartier produces their first in-house caliber

Prices at a Glance: Cartier Watches

How much does a Cartier watch cost?

The majority of Cartier watches change hands for between 3,000 and 13,000 USD. In addition to classics such as the stainless steel Tank, you will also find two-tone versions of the Santos and chronographs from the Pasha collection. Prices for Cartier watches in yellow or rose gold quickly climb to over 20,000 USD.

What’s the cheapest Cartier watch?

You can buy a Cartier watch in mint condition for around the 1,000 USD mark on Chrono24. These are generally older ladies’ watches with a quartz caliber.

What’s the most expensive Cartier watch?

The most expensive Cartier watches are usually pieces of jewelry adorned with diamonds and other gemstones, which cost well over 100,000 USD. Particularly exclusive and rare pieces can even break the 400,000 USD mark. Individual pieces fetch record prices at auction, such as the Phoenix Décor Secret Watch, which changed hands for more that 2 million USD.

Prices for Vintage and Used Cartier Watches

You will find a wide selection of pre-owned Cartier watches on Chrono24. The price of these watches depends heavily on the condition, material, and rarity of the model in question. Vintage watches from the 1980s and 90s made of stainless steel and with quartz movements can be bought in good condition for as little as 500 USD.

The same applies to the vintage sector: the rarer the model, the higher the price. Six-figure sums are not uncommon for a vintage Cartier. One prominent example is a 1967 Cartier London Crash, which was auctioned in 2022 for 1.5 million USD.

Cartier Novelties in Spring 2025

Cartier presented a range of new products at Watches and Wonders 2025. The new edition of the Tank à Guichets attracted particular attention. The special feature of this Tank variant, which the Maison first launched in 1928, is the fact that it dispenses with conventional hands. The clock displays the time digitally in two windows. The hour display is designed as a jumping hour. The Tank à Guichets is available in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum.

The Tank Louis Cartier – another classic in the watchmaker’s range – has also been updated. Cartier is now equipping the large model with the new in-house movement 1899MC. Rose or yellow gold are available as case materials.

Other new products include a Panthère de Cartier adorned with more than 540 diamonds and garnets, as well as a series of elaborately designed jewelry watches from the La Panthère range.

About Cartier’s Women’s Watches

The Cartier catalog includes a wide selection of women’s watches. The main difference between these and the men’s models is their smaller case size. Cartier also likes to decorate its ladies’ watches with gemstones and often transforms them into elaborate pieces of jewelry.

Another difference between Cartier’s men’s and women’s watches are their movements. The Parisian Maison generally uses precise quartz calibers in watches with small and medium case sizes. In watches with a slightly larger diameter, on the other hand, in-house automatic movements keep things running.

Overview of Popular Cartier Women’s Watches

• Tank Française
• Panthère de Cartier
• Ballon Bleu
• Pasha
• La Panthère

About Cartier’s Men’s Watches

Cartier has a long tradition of manufacturing wristwatches for men. To be precise, the Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904, was not only the first pilot’s watch in history, but also the first true men’s wristwatch. Watches in the Santos collection remain among the most popular timepieces from the Parisian manufacturer to this day.

Another classic men’s watch from Cartier is the Tank. The watch, with its characteristic rectangular case and Art Deco dial, has been part of the Maison’s portfolio for more than 100 years. Men usually go for L (large) or XL (extra large) versions, as these sizes are better suited to wider wrists.

Other collections popular with men are the Pasha and Ballon Bleu. Particularly sought-after here are watches with a chronograph function or tourbillon.

Overview of Popular Cartier Men’s Watches

• Santos de Cartier
• Tank Louis Cartier
• Pasha Chrono
• Ballon Bleu

Cartier Tank – Cult Watch for More Than 100 Years

Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, during the First World War. The watch was released in 1919. Characteristic features of all !{mod-186,Cartier Tank} watches are the rectangular case, Art Deco Roman numerals typical of Cartier, and blued sword hands.

The most important models in the Cartier Tank collection include the Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Française, Tank Solo, and Tank Américaine.

Cartier Tank: Features at a Glance

• Rectangular case and dial
• Brancards that also serve as lugs
• Art Deco design with Roman numerals
• Cabochon on the crown
• Blued sword hands
• Men’s and women’s models
• Automatic, hand-wound, or quartz caliber
• Famous wearers: Jackie Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Timothée Chalamet

Cartier Santos: The Watch for Pilots

The Cartier Santos has been around since 1904, when the manufacturer designed the wristwatch especially for the famous Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. Today, the Santos is one of Cartier’s best-selling models. The watch is particularly popular in the USA.

The square shape of the dial, Art Deco Roman numerals, and distinctive screws on the bezel are characteristic features of the line. Cartier currently offers the Santos in two model variants: The classically designed Santos-Dumont and the much more modern Santos de Cartier.

Cartier Santos: Features at a Glance

• Square dial
• Art Deco Roman numerals
• Characteristic flat bezel with decorative screws
• Available in men’s and women’s sizes
• Available in stainless steel, gold, or platinum
• Choice of mechanical in-house calibers or quartz movements
• Available with chronograph or GMT functions

Ballon Bleu With a Blue Cabochon

The Cartier Ballon Bleu owes its name to its round case. The crowns of watches in this line feature blue sapphire or spinel cabochons. Cartier also recessed the crown into the case and surrounded it with a ring. On the one hand, this serves as a crown guard, on the other, it gives the watch its characteristic look.

Cartier has Ballon Bleu variants for both men and women in its range. There are numerous variants to choose from in stainless steel, yellow or rose gold, as well as two-tone watches. Some highly exclusive models are completely encrusted with diamonds. Top models even have a flying tourbillon.

Ballon Blanc: The Ballon Bleu’s Younger Sibling

The Ballon Blanc is in some ways a variation of the Ballon Bleu. Cartier also uses a round case and integrated crown for this watch line. However, the latter is located at the 4 o’clock position on the Ballon Blanc and is concealed by a diamond. With diameters of 26 and 30 mm, the Ballon Blanc is also aimed primarily at those with smaller wrists.

Ballon Bleu: Features at a Glance

• Round case
• Integrated crown with a crown guard and blue sapphire cabochon
• Available in stainless steel, gold, and two-tone versions
• Men’s and women’s sizes
• Choice of mechanical or quartz calibers

Cartier Panthère: The Grace of a Wildcat

The panther has been Cartier’s signature animal since the early 20th century. Since then, the Parisian Maison has dedicated countless pieces of jewelry to this graceful feline predator. In the manufacturer’s current watch catalog, there are several collections bearing the name Panthère.

The best-known line is the ladies’ watch collection Panthère De Cartier. Visually, watches in this series look like the Cartier Santos, but they are significantly smaller and powered exclusively by quartz calibers. Another difference is the strap. Here, it is a five-piece link bracelet, which Cartier claims is particularly supple.

Cartier offers a whole range of jewelry watches under the names La Panthère, Révélation d’une Panthère, Joaillère Panthère, and Indomptables de Cartier.

Features of the Panthère De Cartier at a Glance

• Square case and dial
• Five-piece link bracelet
• Precise quartz caliber
• Available in gold, stainless steel, or two-tone
• Ladies’ watch collection
• Famous wearers: Taylor Swift, Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow

Cartier Crash: Unique Shape and History

Thanks to its unique case, the Cartier Crash looks like a creation by Salvador Dalí. The unusual shape of the Crash is due to the designers at Cartier London wanting to express the spirit of the Swinging Sixties in the British metropolis.

To this day, Cartier only produces the Crash in very small quantities. The watches are therefore quite rare and highly prized by collectors. This applies in particular to vintage models from the 1960s and 70s.

Features of the Cartier Crash at a Glance

• Unmistakable case shape
• Available in gold or platinum
• Art Deco Roman numerals
• High-quality manual caliber
• Sought-after collector’s item

Other Interesting Models From Cartier

In addition to the model series already mentioned, Cartier’s range includes several other interesting collections. For example, if you are looking for a simple dress watch with a classic round case, the Ronde Louis Cartier collection is the right choice. If you want a watch with a little more presence on your wrist, it is best to choose a Cartier Roadster with a tonneau-shaped case.

The Cartier Baignoire range, on the other hand, is aimed at ladies who prefer a watch with an oval case. There are also jewelry watches such as the Clash or the Reflection de Cartier, which skillfully bridge the gap between the art of watchmaking and jewelry craftsmanship.

Buy Cartier Watches on Chrono24

As a global marketplace for luxury watches, Chrono24 offers you access to more than 23,000 Cartier watches, including many timepieces with our Certified seal, which have been certified as authentic by qualified watchmakers. Whether you are seeking a current model, vintage watch, new, or pre-owned timepiece, at Chrono24 you will find the right Cartier at any budget.

Thanks to the Escrow Service, authenticity guarantee, and insured international shipping, buying is safe and easy. And if a watch does not meet your expectations, our quality and security team is there to help you.

FAQs

Who owns Cartier?

Cartier has been part of the Richemont Group since the late 1990s, which also includes manufacturers such as Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and A. Lange & Söhne.

Is Cartier a luxury brand?

Cartier has been one of the most traditional and best-known luxury brands in the world since 1847. The Parisian Maison’s creations are appreciated by celebrities from politics, culture, and the aristocracy.

Is Cartier better than Rolex?

Cartier and Rolex are on a similar level in terms of quality. The difference lies in the design: the Art Deco style with Roman numerals gives Cartier watches a more classic look, while Rolex watches have a more sporty appearance.