There are several reasons why the Cartier Santos is so universally loved. The first is the allure of the Cartier brand, one of the most prestigious in the world, beloved by royalty and celebrities. Second, the Santos was the brand’s first-ever wristwatch. As such, the Santos name attracts fans because of this remarkable legacy.
A third reason is its looks: Cartier watches have many outstanding designs, but the Santos started the famous Cartier design signature. With its square case shape, exposed bezel screws, and elegant overall lines, it has become one of the industry’s great classics. Finally, contrary to what you might think, buying a Cartier Santos won’t necessarily break the bank. You might be surprised to learn that such a legendary watch from a prestigious brand can be fairly affordable.
Know Your Cartier Santos History
Let’s briefly look at the history of the Santos. In the early 1900s, Brazilian-born aristocrat and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont needed an easy-to-read, practical watch for his flying adventures. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented his friend with the new Cartier Santos: a watch worn on the wrist rather than carried in a pocket, as was customary at the time.
In 1911, Cartier decided to start selling the Santos to the public. Over time, it became a favorite of the rich and famous. It wasn’t until 1978 that Cartier unveiled a completely redesigned Santos, with a new aesthetic defined by a stainless steel case with a gold bezel and a stainless steel bracelet with gold screws. It was the first non-precious metal Santos and one of the first steel and gold watches ever launched. With its quartz movement and affordable price, the new Santos became a hit.
In 1987, Cartier introduced the Santos Galbée. This version featured a revamped design that defined the Santos for the next three decades, and remains a favorite among watch enthusiasts today. In 2018, Cartier updated the design to the current Santos de Cartier, and in 2019, the Santos-Dumont was added to the collection. The watch is a modern celebration of the classic Santos design introduced in 1904. Today, you can choose between the Santos de Cartier and the Cartier Santos-Dumont.
Pricing and Value Development
Looking at our ChronoPulse watch market index, we see that the Cartier Santos has performed very well. Furthermore, Cartier’s recent price performance as a brand has been atypical. While most brands have seen prices decline over the past 24 months, Cartier’s prices for popular models, including the Santos, have risen significantly.
However, these prices vary according to the different models and sizes available. As with any Cartier watch, the Santos comes in a variety of sizes to fit both men’s and women’s wrists. Generally, the medium and large models are the most sought-after and therefore more expensive.
You can choose between the full stainless steel versions or the steel and gold versions. The latter is less popular, despite its legendary status as one of the first two-tone watches. You can also opt for a quartz or mechanical version of the Santos. The quartz versions are much more affordable, and offer the characteristic Santos style, while mechanical models are the most popular and have seen the highest price increases.
Not surprisingly, the special and limited editions released over the years are the most expensive and most coveted by Cartier collectors. A good example is the platinum and gold versions of the Santos that were part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris, which reintroduced the classic Santos to a wide audience and increased its popularity tremendously. As they are very limited, you will have to bring some serious cash to the table to buy one.
Small, Medium, Large, or Extra Large?
Let’s take a look at Cartier’s unique way of defining size. While most brands define the size of a watch by its physical measurements, Cartier offers its watches in fashionable sizes: small, medium, large or extra large. This doesn’t mean they all have the same case size; it’s just an indication of what might work for you. Small and medium are probably best for a woman’s wrist, while large and extra large are probably more at home on a man’s wrist. But as always, have fun trying these timepieces on to see what suits you best.
Santos de Cartier vs. Cartier Santos-Dumont
This brings me to another important point: the choice between the Santos de Cartier and the Santos-Dumont. What’s your preference here? A modern version of the classic Santos, or the classic style of the original Santos with the Santos-Dumont?
The Santos-Dumont celebrates the original Cartier style with the traditional Santos case in gold, stainless steel or a combination of both, paired with stylish leather straps and a variety of dials. The special editions we have seen add an incredible creativity with stunning dials, lacquered cases and brilliant complications.
The Santos de Cartier is the sportier option, available primarily on a metal bracelet. With a variety of sizes and dial options – including my favorite medium with a brown dial – there’s sure to be a Santos for you. And don’t forget to check out the vintage models, as they’re an important part of Cartier’s compelling Santos heritage. With over a century of history and a wide selection of models in a range of price points, there is truly a Santos for everyone.
