Seiko vs. Tissot, Japan vs. Switzerland. It may sound like a World Cup matchup, but it’s actually our attempt to compare two long-established watch brands that could hardly be more different. However, the two manufacturers have one thing in common: They each produce a wide range of high-quality watches designed for everyday use and for every budget. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about Seiko and Tissot and their respective timepieces.
Seiko and Tissot – A Historic Overview
The history of Japanese watch giant Seiko dates back to 1881. That was the year 21-year-old entrepreneur Kintaro Hattori opened a small watch shop in Japan’s capital, Tokyo. Hattori ran the shop successfully for 11 years before opening his first watch factory in 1892 under the name Seikosha. Seikosha is an amalgamation of two terms: “seiko” (precise) and “sha” (house). In 1913, the company presented their Laurel model, the first wristwatch made in Japan consisting of in-house components. In its more than 140-year history, Seiko has repeatedly proven itself to be an innovator in the watch industry. Groundbreaking developments like hybrid Spring Drive movements and Kinetic technology are among the most important inventions from this traditional Japanese brand. Seiko manufactures practically all of their own watch components – regardless of the final price tag – earning itself the title of manufacturer. Today, the brand is run by company president Shinji Hattori, the fourth generation of his family to sit at the helm. Seiko Holdings Corporation employs approximately 5,500 people. The traditional manufacturer Tissot was founded in 1853 in the Swiss town of Le Locle under the name Ch. Félicien Tissot & Fils. The company was started by the precision case maker Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son Charles-Émile, a trained watchmaker. Like many Swiss watch brands from the same era, the company initially assembled pocket watches from prefabricated parts. Following the general trend away from pocket watches, Tissot introduced its first mechanical wristwatch in 1915. The Tissot Antimagnetique, the world’s first mass-produced antimagnetic wristwatch, followed in 1930. In the mid-1960s, Tissot launched the PR 516 collection, a line inspired by car racing with a distinctly sporty design. One of the main attractions of the collection were bracelets with round cut-outs, reminiscent of steering wheels. In the years that followed and until the mid-1990s, Tissot sponsored several Formula 1 teams, including Renault Alpine, Porsche, Lotus, and Sauber Mercedes. Since 1998, Tissot has been part of the Swatch Group, which is also home to manufacturers like Omega, Longines, and Blancpain. Movement manufacturer ETA also belongs to the Swatch Group and supplies Tissot with calibers. Today, Tissot acts as the official timekeeper of numerous sporting events such as the MotoGP and Tour de France. The company maintains its headquarters in Le Locle and employs around 1,500 people.
The Most Famous Seiko Watches
One of Seiko’s most famous lines is the Seiko 5 Sports Collection, which represents the entry-level price point for the brand. A popular example from this series is the SRPD55K1 diving watch. This stainless steel model with an automatic movement is available for around $325 new. In the Prospex collection, you’ll mostly find robust stainless steel diving watches. A fine example is the ref. SPB317J1, one of Seiko’s most popular diving watches in this price segment. Unworn specimens cost around $900. Another favorite is the Prospex Marinemaster 300M ref. SLA021J1. This watch is equipped with a monobloc case and costs around $3,100. Further variants of the Prospex series can be found under the “Alpinist” moniker. The ref. SPB121J1, for example, has earned itself a following. The price of this model is around $725.
If you’re looking for a diving watch with modern Spring Drive technology, you should check out the Seiko Prospex Spring Drive SBDB035. This model offers a practical power reserve indicator and costs roughly $3,800. Watches from the Presage series have a more elegant, classic style. The Presage Cocktail Time (ref. SRPB43J1) is one popular model. You can buy this stainless steel watch with a light blue dial for around $350.
Popular Tissot Watches
Like Seiko, Tissot offers some well-known timepieces that are considered classics of their kind. This includes the PRS 516 collection mentioned above, which features a number of chronographs to choose from as of summer 2024. The most recent version bears the ref. T149.459.21.051.00. This mechanical watch is made of stainless steel and costs around $1,850. There are also quartz-powered versions of the PRS 516 that you can buy for less than $500. Tissot introduced the Gentleman collection a few years ago, offering a model line that many consider an affordable alternative to the Rolex Datejust. Tissot offers these watches with either a quartz or an automatic movement. One example from this collection is the automatic ref. T127.407.11.051.00 with a black dial on a stainless steel bracelet. This timepieces costs around $825 new. A comparable model with quartz caliber is available for closer to $400.
Tissot attracted greater attention in 2021 with its new edition of the PRX series. The design of the watches in this collection date back to the late 1970s, when the company first presented the PRX. Here, too, the manufacturer offers variants with automatic or quartz calibers. The latter is found in both men’s and women’s models. The 35-mm ladies watch with the reference number T137.210.11.351.00 is available for around $395 new. The men’s model with a black dial and automatic caliber (ref. T137.407.11.041.00) costs approximately $725.
Quality and Craftsmanship
Both Seiko and Tissot are renowned watch manufacturers that have been in business since the 19th century, which means they have a great deal of experience and expertise to draw on. The manufacturers offer excellent value in their respective price segments, with Seiko earning some bonus points for its impressive vertical integration. You won’t find inferior timepieces from either brand. Seiko covers a much wider range of products and prices than Tissot. Prices for top-range Tissot models represent the lower-end of Seiko’s most prestigious offerings. Therefore, it’s important to look at the price tags and compare.
Functionality and Technology
When it comes to technology, Seiko is the clear winner. While Tissot sticks to tried and tested ETA technology for corporate reasons, Seiko has always been considered an innovator in the industry. First and foremost, we need to mention Spring Drive and Kinetic technologies, both of which have revolutionized the watch industry.
In my opinion, Seiko also comes out ahead of Tissot in terms of functionality with its robust “no-nonsense watches.” Many of the Japanese models are considered tool watches that are ready for use underwater, on land, or in the air without pause. As a Swiss brand geared toward a younger audience, Tissot places particular emphasis on attractive designs and is noticeably guided by current trends in the fashion and watch industries. Of course, all the functions of a Tissot watch are 100% on point, but looks nevertheless reign supreme.
Pricing and Value Retention
Tissot and Seiko watches are designed primarily for one purpose: to be worn. Only a few models, such as vintage Tissot PRS 516 originals or the Seiko Turtle “Captain Willard,” offer potential for appreciation. Watches from both brands do retain their value to a certain extent, though newer, pre-owned examples do trade noticeably below list prices. Therefore, it’s important to buy watches from Seiko and Tissot for as little as possible.
Summary
Tissot and Seiko both offer high-quality watches at reasonable prices, but each has its own strengths and focal points. Tissot is ideal for novices who are looking for Swiss watchmaking and stylish designs at a good price. Seiko is known for its innovation, a wide range of timepieces, and excellent value for money. Both brands are strong contenders in their respective categories and offer excellent products for different needs and preferences. Watches from both brands are intended to be worn and in most cases, they are not considered good investments if you’re looking to make a profit.
