As we all know, as soon as one Watches and Wonders ends, talk of the next one begins. And once again, the famous luxury watch fair is just around the corner. We’ve taken the opportunity to review last year’s innovations and trends. The focus last year was certainly on technical finesse, innovative materials, and creative reinterpretations of traditional models. IWC, for example, presented their impressive Portugieser Eternal Calendar. Patek Philippe impressed with a new Grand Complications and a fresh version of the coveted Nautilus. Industry leader Rolex added the elegant Perpetual 1908 and new models of its sporty GMT-Master II to its portfolio, while Tudor came up with an attractive GMT variant of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. In addition to these major highlights and box-office hits that attracted a lot of attention, there were also manufacturers whose models were somewhat lost in the flurry of the crowd favorites. Which timepieces do we think deserve more attention? Find out now!
Watches and Wonders 2024: Lesser-Known Innovations
1. Gérald Charles Masterlink
The Gérald Charles Masterlink is a modern interpretation of Gérald Genta’s pioneering designs. Gérald Genta is responsible for the designs of the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, among others. The Masterlink combines sporty, elegant aesthetics with high-precision mechanics and an innovative case design. The case measures 38 x 38 mm, is made of stainless steel, and has the typical Gérald Charles shape. The characteristic “smile” curve at 6 o’clock is also characteristic of the design. The curved case geometry is continued onto the integrated stainless steel bracelet. The dial has vertical stripes and is available in either blue or silver. Thanks to applied, luminescent indices and hands, the dial has a clear structure and is easy to read, even in the dark. The Masterlink is water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar), making it ideal for an everyday watch. The ultra-thin, in-house GCA 5401 caliber with a microrotor powers the watch. This automatic caliber offers a power reserve of 50 hours and operates at a frequency of 21,600 vph. A few examples are available on Chrono24, starting at prices around $19,000.
2. Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGW003
Luxury watches from Grand Seiko typically fly under the radar in many places, giving them a high degree of understatement. This also applies to the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ref. SLGW003. The model combines traditional Japanese craftsmanship with state-of-the-art watchmaking technology, making it a dress watch par excellence. The watch has a 38.6-mm case made from Brilliant Hard Titanium. The material is as hard as stainless steel, but much lighter and more corrosion-resistant. Thanks to the fine “Zaratsu” polish, the surface has a flawless, mirror-smooth appearance and refracts the light with elegant reflections. With a height of just 9.95 mm, the watch is pleasantly slim. The textured dial is inspired by the white birch forests of northern Japan – a tribute to the nature of the region where Grand Seiko is based. The hands are driven by the in-house Seiko movement 9SA4, a high-beat caliber whose balance wheel oscillates at 36,000 vph. The power reserve is around 80 hours. With a depth rating of 30 m (3 bar), the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGW003 is only splash-proof. Priced around $11,000, this watch is more in the mid-price range, although the model can be found in very good or even new condition for around $9,700. on the secondary market.
3. Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph
The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (ref. 03.9500.3600/51.I001) follows the angular design language of the Defy collection, including the faceted bezel. The case of this model is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 42 mm. A typical feature of the Defy collection is the three-piece link bracelet, which can be easily replaced thanks to a quick-change system. The model features a blue sunburst dial with a star pattern that creates remarkable depth, while the chronograph display is clearly organized. The dial has three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, while the date window is integrated at 4:30. At the heart of the watch is the in-house Zenith El Primero 311 caliber. As in the Seiko Evolution 9, the balance wheel of this movement oscillates at a frequency of 36,000 vph. The power reserve is around 60 hours. The Defy Skyline Chronograph is also available with a black dial under the reference number 03.9500.3600/21.I001. The list price for both variants is around $13,400, while offers on Chrono24 start at around $10,500. That’s it for our recap of Watches and Wonders 2024. Which model is your favorite?
