Another year, another Watches and Wonders! This years edition will take place Tuesday, April 1, to Monday, April 7, 2025, in Geneva’s Palexpo halls with the final two days open to the public. Over 60 exhibiting brands will showcase the latest innovations, stunning new timepieces, and the latest trends. And as the Swiss watch industry navigated through quite some challenges during the past year, watch enthusiasts all over the globe are even more eager to see what’s going to be presented. Whether you’re a seasoned collector, an aspiring enthusiast, or simply curious about fine watchmaking, this is the place to be. Let’s dive into what might steal the show this year – our Editor Kristian shares his thoughts with us.
What’s up, LVMH?
LVMH is partially showcasing its new pieces during Watches and Wonders. But they ought to also highlight Louis Vuitton watches as well as Daniel Roth news, as the group demonstrates a strong commitment to horology and is investing heavily in traditional watchmaking.
A recent visit to La Fabrique du Temps reaffirmed my belief in the exceptional craftsmanship behind their timepieces. These watches stand apart from the brand’s iconic monogrammed handbags yet seamlessly align with its broader luxury vision.
In today’s uncertain market, watches undeniably offer greater sustainability compared to fashion. I believe this is a key reason why the Arnault family is expanding deeper into the watch industry, alongside its existing brands Bvlgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith—all brands presenting new models during Watches and Wonders.
Ready for the Cubitus wave?
I don’t know how you feel about the Patek Philippe Cubitus—a watch that created quite a stir when it launched in Munich in 2024. If you’re not a fan, you’d better get used to seeing plenty more Cubitus models in the future. The President of the company, Mr. Thierry Stern, told me that the Cubitus has been designed to fit your wrist until 2039. In other words, no matter the negative critique, the Cubitus is here to stay—for quite a while, mind you.
The Indies
When it comes to independent brands (actually, Patek Philippe can rightfully be called an independent brand), I’m especially looking forward to seeing what these manufacturers have in store:
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier seems to be riding a wave of success. The company produces around 400 pieces a year and doesn’t belong to a brand that encourages much window shopping—simply because most watches sell quickly, creating long waiting lists. I should know. I ordered a Sport Auto last year and am still waiting—impatiently.
Even though the Sport line is a personal favorite, I expect Laurent Ferrier to stick to the Classic line and introduce more complications. Last year, it was all about the annual calendar and a moonphase to die for. This year, they could potentially add a tourbillon—a tourbillon, mind you, only visible from the back.
H. Moser & Cie.
I’ve been following the growing interest in H. Moser & Cie. for many years now. However, when Edward Meylan, the brand’s CEO, casually wore a Streamliner during a breakfast interview in Dubai in 2019, my interest in the indie brand deepened even further.
H. Moser & Cie. really hit it big with the launch of the Streamliner. No longer a newcomer, the Streamliner collection has matured, introducing so many new and über-interesting models that appeal not only to seasoned collectors but also to young enthusiasts. Bravo!
Creativity on hold – or not
One brand stands out in the market when it comes to creativity: Hublot. Since its founder, Carlo Crocco, introduced gold watches on rubber straps in 1980, the brand has been all about fusion. Hublot is also a leader in ceramic innovation, and earlier this year, the brand unveiled multi-colored ceramic, dubbed “Magic Ceramic.”
I doubt we’ll hear much about this material in 2025 though, as most brands navigate more cautiously through the market right now.
Trendy. Who?
We’ve already seen many newcomers offering stone dials inspired by the 1960s and ’70s (think Dennison, Bulova, and Baltic), and I expect to see even more of these showcased during Watches and Wonders 2025.
Of course, established brands like Piaget and Rolex have a rich history with stone dials. I’m certain Piaget will unveil some impressive new pieces featuring them. However, I don’t expect Rolex to embrace stone dials as readily as other brands, as Rolex is known for introducing new products rather than revisiting past trends.
Do we need the show?
Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Chopard remain the heavy hitters—the Grand Old Men, if you will—setting the pace for the show. However, Bvlgari, backed by the powerful LVMH group, has joined the show this year and will undoubtedly help cement Watches and Wonders as the premier event in the industry.
Do we need Watches and Wonders? Yes, we do. It is a crucial event that commands the full attention of not only the international press but also retailers from around the world. That being said, with 60 exhibiting brands—plus the brands outside Palexpo – it has become quite an overwhelming experience.
In the early days, when Watches and Wonders was SIHH and showed news from 16-18 brands, I had enough time to see them all, but now, I don’t. What’s the point of having so many exhibitors if there isn’t enough time to visit them all?
After all, the journalists only have four days to experience the whole show and with between eight or ten presentations a day, a quick calculation reveals quite a few companies that will not get the needed attention. So, year after year, I have to make a careful selection.
Looking forward to…
As an industry veteran, meeting so many friends in one place is always a pleasure. It’s a global get-together, and who doesn’t enjoy reconnecting with longtime friends, having a drink or two, and discussing life?
Beyond catching up with friends from around the world, I am especially looking forward to hosting a photo exhibition with Leica discussing their watches and cameras on April 2nd, as well as participating in a panel talk on April 5th with my friend and colleague, Robin Swithinbank.
