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TOP
Rolex Datejust Lady 179158 26mm Diamond Set
22 220 
Verified Dealer
245
UK
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36 sigma dial
7 999 
Verified Dealer
37
IT
TOP
Rolex Datejust 178279 - 31mm White Gold Watch - Diamond Dial -...
16 580 
Verified Dealer
93
UK
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Classico NEW NEVER USED 3206-136-2/31
6 800 
Verified Dealer
35
DK
TOP
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, Moon Phases Ref. 5396G - 011...
39 780 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
96
IT
TOP
Franck Muller Cintree Curvex Master Banker Three Time Zones...
22 500 
Verified Dealer
1246
NL
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Superflat 18K Gold Gelbgold...
2 290 
Verified Dealer
408
DE
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver 18k, factory serviced
13 500 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
Rolex DAY-DATE 36mm Yellow Gold Champagne Dial Watch 18038
11 111 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
206
US
De Grisogono Instrumento Tondo TONDO RM S24R
15 696 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
US
TOP
Zenith CHRONOGRAPH 18K 146DP 1960s
3 200 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
51
DE
TOP
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold Edición Limitada
13 900 
Verified Dealer
53
ES
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Watch 18K Gold
5 250 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
51
PT
Breguet Marine Royale Alarm 45mm 2012 FULLSET Serviced 2015
19 900 
Verified Dealer
104
FI
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36, box and papers, LC 100, factory diamond black
13 899 
Verified Dealer
215
DE
TOP
Patek Philippe 5000 FR LIMITED
13 900 
Verified Dealer
150
IT
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver 18k Black Surf LE
11 900 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
TOP
Franck Muller Conquistador 18k Yellow Gold Fully Iced -...
26 999 
Verified Dealer
87
BG
Rolex Day-Date 18238
13 844 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
650
US
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre DRESS 18K YELLOW GOLD TEAR DROP 1947
2 900 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
51
DE
Panerai Luminor Marina 18K White Gold
13 200 
Verified Dealer
10
FI
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto Duo Full Set Like New
11 000 
Verified Dealer
166
ES
Tiffany Chronograph 18k Moonphase
4 900 
Verified Dealer
104
FI
TOP
Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpagraphe Weissgold UNGETRAGEN Abyss...
11 990 
Verified Dealer
122
DE
TOP
Rolex cellini
2 740 
Verified Dealer
150
IT
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chrono Red Gold
15 900 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 18038 36 White Dial Fluted Bezel 36mm
14 486 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
14
US
TOP
Hublot Rose gold Ferrari White Rubber Band 401.OX.0123.VR
24 308 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
327
US
TOP
Rolex Men's 18K Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1022 Automatic c.1963...
5 371 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
564
US
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus
52 000 
Verified Dealer
 
EE
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Odysseus Chronograph 18k (0,750) Gold...
2 760 
Verified Dealer
1959
DE
Tissot Seastar Seven 34mm 18k 34g
990 
Verified Dealer
104
FI
TOP
Rolex Sky-Dweller Gelbgold / Krokoleder 326138
28 430 
Verified Dealer
468
DE
TOP
Cartier PANTHERE RONDE'
4 750 
Verified Dealer
150
IT
Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar Red Gold
14 900 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
TOP
Patek Philippe PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONO 5270G FULL SET
93 500 
Verified Dealer
229
IT
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36 18K Gold Meteorite Diamond Dial 36mm Watch
11 533 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
14
US
Chopard L.U.C. XP
3 200 
Private Seller
 
FI
TOP
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar White Gold
18 900 
Verified Dealer
 
EE
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Venus 18K Gelbgold Limidet Edition
4 799 
Verified Dealer
592
DE
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 6309 36mm
5 990 
Verified Dealer
104
FI
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Memovox Rotgold 1702440
8 760 
Verified Dealer
468
DE
TOP
Montblanc Heritage Spirit Spirit Orbis Terrarum Rose Gold
11 500 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
308
LV
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Taille GMT am/pm, red gold
13 700 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava (2015)
18 320 
Verified Dealer
140
DE
TOP
Patek Philippe Chronograph ROSE GOLD SILVER DIAL BOX AND...
48 750 
Verified Dealer
229
IT
TOP
IWC 14k (0,585) Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Kal. 852 Vintage...
1 560 
Verified Dealer
1959
DE
Rolex President Datejust Ladies 18K Yellow Gold 26MM w/Red...
6 477 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
58
US
Girard Perregaux 1966 30MM Pink Gold Strap Black Topping Diamonds
Price on request
Verified Dealer
2260
IT
Rolex Lady-Datejust 26mm 18k Gold
1 990 
Verified Dealer
104
FI
TOP
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Weißgold Ref. 116509 Grau
34 990 
Verified Dealer
468
DE
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R-001 Rose Gold Prima Serie Sealed...
78 000 
Verified Dealer
69
IT
Panerai Luminor 1950 8 Days GMT Goldtech, Unworn
19 500 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Blue
19 700 
Verified Dealer
329
DE
TOP
Patek Philippe AQUANAUT TRAVEL TIME WATCH 5164R-001
65 746 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
15
US
TOP
Audemars Piguet Jules 18k Weissgold Handaufzug Herrenuhr E22731
5 640 
Verified Dealer
1959
DE
TOP
Glashütte Original Senator Sport Chronograph 18K Weißgold
20 695 
Verified Dealer
1031
DE
TOP
Rolex 36mm 18K Day-Date Silver Diamond Dial - 18038
11 575 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
63
US
Hamilton Lady Hamilton solid 14k with 8 diamonds manual winding
490 
Verified Dealer
104
FI
Audemars Piguet Deva Watch & Necklace Set 68018BC.ZZ.A001CU.01
92 596 
Verified Dealer
113
US
Rolex Datejust 31 mm Mid Size yellow gold
7 500 
Verified Dealer
38
IT
Rolex GMT-Master 16758 Nipple Dial, original box and papers
31 900 
Verified Dealer
18
FI
Chopard Happy Sport Automatic 2019
15 009 
Verified Dealer
2542
DE
Juvenia Damenarmbanduhr in 18K Weissgold mit 28 Diamanten
3 900 
Private Seller
 
DE
  • 30
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  • 120

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.