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TOP
Piaget 94024N Mecanique, Mens, 18K Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel
18 171 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
183
US
TOP
Piaget Altiplano Or Blanc NEW Full Set Women
3 950 
Verified Dealer
17
FR
TOP
Patek Philippe Ellipse, Yellow Gold 18k Jumbo, Diamonds,...
13 219 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
183
US
TOP
Rolex Day-Date
12 000 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
6
IT
TOP
Romain Jerome Titanic-DNA Chronograph "v"
10 840 
Verified Dealer
40
DE
Cartier 2403 Tank Francaise Mini Quartz 18K White Gold...
11 559 
Verified Dealer
346
US
TOP
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph
24 400 
Verified Dealer
24
PT
Eterna-Matic 14K gents dress watch
940 
Verified Dealer
14
FI
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Superflat 18K Gold Gelbgold...
2 490 
Verified Dealer
373
DE
TOP
Cartier Men's Cartier Tank Américaine 18K Yellow Gold 27mm...
4 617 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
287
US
TOP
Patek Philippe Ellipse 18k Weissgold Handaufzug Herrenuhr Gold...
5 760 
Verified Dealer
1805
DE
Cartier Tortue
21 316 
Verified Dealer
 
AE
Rolex President 118239 18k W/g 36mm Day-date Fat Buckle Havana...
15 998 
Verified Dealer
41
US
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo Trapez "v"
9 420 
Verified Dealer
40
DE
TOP
IWC IW390405 - Portuguese Chronograph Classic Ardoise Santoni -
13 000 
Verified Dealer
26
DE
Longines 30ch ref.5967 in oro rosa
7 000 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
41
IT
TOP
Audemars Piguet Vintage 18ct White Gold 14647.780
6 500 
Verified Dealer
604
NL
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K Gold Gelbgold Automatik Automatic...
8 490 
Verified Dealer
373
DE
Chopard Happy Diamonds, Ref 20/4780, Lds, 18K Gold, 5 Diamonds...
2 215 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
129
US
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control 18k Gold Automatik Herrenuhr...
5 630 
Verified Dealer
1805
DE
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera
3 890 
Verified Dealer
441
ES
Bulova Accutron 18K NOS new old stock
1 750 
Verified Dealer
14
FI
TOP
Harry Winston Midnight Automatic "v"
8 875 
Verified Dealer
40
DE
Audemars Piguet 18K Rose Gold Edward Piguet Chronograph...
10 907 
Verified Dealer
41
CA
TOP
Omega De Ville Hour Vision 18K Redgold NEW
10 090 
Verified Dealer
668
LI
TOP
Franck Muller Conquistador Automatic 18K Yellow Gold - 8001 L SC
4 100 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
451
NL
TOP
Rolex Lady Date Datejust Gold Gelbgold Automatic Service 09/2018
2 490 
Verified Dealer
373
DE
Cartier Cougar
11 697 
Verified Dealer
 
AE
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 18k Weissgold Ref....
14 360 
Verified Dealer
1805
DE
TOP
Bulgari Rettangolo
3 190 
Verified Dealer
441
ES
TOP
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold Edición Limitada
13 900 
Verified Dealer
50
ES
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Venus 18K Gelbgold Limidet Edition
4 799 
Verified Dealer
565
DE
TOP
Rolex Day-Date Oysterquartz quadrante brillanti
10 300 
Verified Dealer
30
IT
Panerai Luminor Marina 18K White Gold
13 200 
Verified Dealer
9
FI
TOP
Franck Muller Sunset XL Limited Edition Sparkling Dial - 18K...
6 150 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
451
NL
TOP
Patek Philippe Ellipse TV 18K Gold Handaufzug Manual Service...
3 490 
Verified Dealer
373
DE
Cartier Yellow Gold Classic
7 731 
Verified Dealer
 
AE
TOP
IWC Schaffhausen 14k Gold Handaufzug Herrenuhr Cal. 89 Vintage...
1 760 
Verified Dealer
1805
DE
Rolex Yellow Gold - Diamond Bezel
32 916 
Verified Dealer
58
US
TOP
Breguet TRADITION ROSE GOLD AUTOMATIC RETROGRADE SECONDS B&P
21 450 
Verified Dealer
223
IT
TOP
Cartier Divan XL oro bianco e brillanti
10 000 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
6
IT
Gaga Milano Watch Napoleone 40MM Rose Gold 6031
726 
Verified Dealer
145
UK
TOP
Panerai Radiomir Whitegold PAM376
13 990 
Verified Dealer
668
LI
TOP
Omega Bumper Automatic 14K Yellow Gold - F 6516
1 150 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
451
NL
Chronographe Suisse Cie 18K Gold Chronograph
1 290 
Private Seller
 
FI
Omega Vintage Yellow Gold 16270831 - COM2129
3 729 
Verified Dealer
41
NL
TOP
Union Glashütte Taschenuhr 14k Rotgold Handaufzug Savonette...
2 430 
Verified Dealer
1805
DE
Audemars Piguet Chronograph 41mm Royal Oak
Price on request
Verified Dealer
58
US
Rolex Day Date Oysterquartz 19018 Yellow Gold
8 000 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
28
ES
Rolex Daytona 18k 40mm 2005 116518
16 800 
Verified Dealer
93
FI
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 m Omega Co-Axial Master...
5 289 
Verified Dealer
2275
DE
TOP
Franck Muller Casablanca Curvex 18K Yellow Gold Ref: 6850 SC
5 548 
Verified Dealer
104
US
TOP
Universal Genève Universal First Chronograph Rare Find 18K...
3 850 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
451
NL
Vacheron Constantin
17 875 
Private Seller
 
FI
TOP
Patek Philippe World Time New 2019
32 600 
Verified Dealer
112
IT
TOP
Omega Taschenuhr 14k (0,585) Gold Handaufzug Ref. 1211...
1 260 
Verified Dealer
1805
DE
Rolex Day Date President Yellow Gold - Fluted Bezel - President
28 418 
Verified Dealer
58
US
Omega 14ct golden jubilee model
325 
Verified Dealer
1087
FI
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde
9 200 
Verified Dealer
441
ES
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
7 990 
Verified Dealer
1075
BE
Hamilton Lady Hamilton solid 14k with 8 diamonds manual winding
490 
Verified Dealer
93
FI
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Regulateur 18K Solid Yellow Gold Limited...
2 650 
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
451
NL
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Minute Repeater Tourbillon...
143 336 
Verified Dealer
97
US
TOP
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116519ln New 2019
28 900 
Verified Dealer
112
IT
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.