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Breitling Emergency White Gold - Serviced by Breitling
TOP
Breitling Emergency White Gold - Serviced by Breitling
10,646 
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
122
UK
Rolex Daytona 116509 - Diamond Pave - Serviced By Rolex
TOP
Rolex Daytona 116509 - Diamond Pave - Serviced By Rolex
26,714 
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
122
UK
Breitling Lady Cockpit K7135653 - Diamond Set - Serviced By...
TOP
Breitling Lady Cockpit K7135653 - Diamond Set - Serviced By...
13,015 
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
122
UK
Breitling Starliner K71340 - Diamond Set - Box & Paperwork 2010
TOP
Breitling Starliner K71340 - Diamond Set - Box & Paperwork 2010
10,646 
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
122
UK
Omega Geneve
TOP
Omega Geneve
1,190 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
Omega Seamaster DeVille Automatic 14910 34mm
TOP
Omega Seamaster DeVille Automatic 14910 34mm
1,080 
Seller
Trophies Watches
 
NL
Rolex Lady Yachtmaster 18K Gelb Gold Automatic Service 10.2018
TOP
Rolex Lady Yachtmaster 18K Gelb Gold Automatic Service 10.2018
7,990 
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
262
DE
Eterna Matic Reveil 1948 Les Historiques, Rose Gold
TOP
Eterna Matic Reveil 1948 Les Historiques, Rose Gold
4,928 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar moon phase rose gold
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar moon phase rose gold
10,400 
Seller
The Watch Firm
248
AT
Cartier Calandre 18k Gold with original box
Cartier Calandre 18k Gold with original box
3,900 
Seller
Chrono Finland
59
FI
Rolex Yacht-Master II
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master II
32,860 
Seller
Prestige Luxusuhren GmbH
4152
DE
Concord c1 rose gold
TOP
Concord c1 rose gold
4,888 
Seller
Private Seller
 
FI
Vacheron Constantin Overseas lady Diamonds
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Overseas lady Diamonds
7,995 
Seller
TopHorloges.EU
178
NL
Omega Vintage Gold
Omega Vintage Gold
2,495 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
Rolex Day-Date 40 18 kt Weißgold Schwarz DIA 228239
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 40 18 kt Weißgold Schwarz DIA 228239
32,340 
Seller
Uhren2000 GmbH
371
DE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Medium Midsize 18K GOLD GELBGOLD
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Medium Midsize 18K GOLD GELBGOLD
11,990 
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
262
DE
Rolex Oman Cellini, Diamonds & Sapphire, Super Rare
TOP
Rolex Oman Cellini, Diamonds & Sapphire, Super Rare
15,680 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Chopard Your Hour after market diamond white gold
TOP
Chopard Your Hour after market diamond white gold
3,300 
Seller
The Watch Firm
248
AT
Ebel 1911 1988 El Primero 18k FULLSET B&P
Ebel 1911 1988 El Primero 18k FULLSET B&P
3,890 
Seller
Chrono Finland
59
FI
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo XVII 45th Anniversary Lim
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo XVII 45th Anniversary Lim
18,300 
Seller
Prestige Luxusuhren GmbH
4152
DE
Zenith Depose
TOP
Zenith Depose
22,800 
Seller
Private Seller
 
FI
Audemars Piguet Promesse
TOP
Audemars Piguet Promesse
6,950 
Seller
TopHorloges.EU
178
NL
La Trame Vintage Gold Watch
La Trame Vintage Gold Watch
1,250 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
Hublot Big Bang King
TOP
Hublot Big Bang King
12,900 
Free shipping
Seller
AP Watches
24
ES
Rolex DAY DATE PRESIDENT 18K GOLD GILT DIAMOND STRING DIAL
TOP
Rolex DAY DATE PRESIDENT 18K GOLD GILT DIAMOND STRING DIAL
12,990 
Seller
Timeless Watches GmbH
262
DE
Patek Philippe Gondolo, Full Set
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo, Full Set
9,632 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Breguet Classique 5930 with Papers
TOP
Breguet Classique 5930 with Papers
5,600 
Seller
The Watch Firm
248
AT
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner 34mm 18k RARE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner 34mm 18k RARE
2,490 
Seller
Chrono Finland
59
FI
Rolex Day-Date President Blue Dial Revision 2016 Mint Condition
TOP
Rolex Day-Date President Blue Dial Revision 2016 Mint Condition
15,686 
Seller
Luxus Ritter
92
DE
Breitling Callistino
TOP
Breitling Callistino
950 
Seller
Private Seller
 
FI
Chopard Ronde - 18 K / 750 - Gold - Vintage - Etat superb..
TOP
Chopard Ronde - 18 K / 750 - Gold - Vintage - Etat superb..
1,290 
Seller
Westside Watches
58
DE
Bulova Accutron
Bulova Accutron
1,195 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph - 26331or
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph - 26331or
33,900 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
183
IT
Breguet Marine
TOP
Breguet Marine
6,500 
Free shipping
Seller
IL CORDUSIO SAS
 
IT
Baume & Mercier White Gold Bracelet
TOP
Baume & Mercier White Gold Bracelet
2,688 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Rose Gold Box & Documens
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Rose Gold Box & Documens
19,725 
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesNorte
123
ES
Rolex Lady-Datejust 26mm 18k Gold
Rolex Lady-Datejust 26mm 18k Gold
1,990 
Seller
Chrono Finland
59
FI
Rolex GMT Matser Vintage Nipple Dial 18K Gold Box Papers Revision
TOP
Rolex GMT Matser Vintage Nipple Dial 18K Gold Box Papers Revision
38,658 
Seller
Luxus Ritter
92
DE
Chopard L.U.C. XP
Chopard L.U.C. XP
3,800 
Seller
Private Seller
 
FI
Jaeger-LeCoultre Odysseus 18K Gold Moonphase Complication -...
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Odysseus 18K Gold Moonphase Complication -...
2,850 
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
212
NL
Omega Vintage Gold
Omega Vintage Gold
2,395 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
Patek Philippe 5070r Chronograph - 5070r
TOP
Patek Philippe 5070r Chronograph - 5070r
64,900 
Seller
CONCEPT LUXURY
183
IT
Hublot Big Bang Broderie Sugar Skull (Limited Edition)
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Broderie Sugar Skull (Limited Edition)
23,900 
Free shipping
Seller
Istock LTD
112
LV
Omega Constellation Manhattan Diamonds, Pave, Super Rare
TOP
Omega Constellation Manhattan Diamonds, Pave, Super Rare
14,784 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Corum Coin 50-Dollar-Gold 50th Anniversary
TOP
Corum Coin 50-Dollar-Gold 50th Anniversary
14,886 
Seller
Clock-Agent
RU
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 18k 2008 42mm Fullset B&P
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 18k 2008 42mm Fullset B&P
16,290 
Seller
Chrono Finland
59
FI
Porsche Design Worldtimer Roségold Pinkgold P 6750 Collector
TOP
Porsche Design Worldtimer Roségold Pinkgold P 6750 Collector
14,359 
Seller
Luxus Ritter
92
DE
Cartier Pasha
Cartier Pasha
6,000 
Seller
Private Seller
 
FI
Rolex Oyster Perpetual  Mid-Size Caramel Dial - 18K Solid Gold
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Mid-Size Caramel Dial - 18K Solid Gold
4,450 
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
212
NL
Omega Vintage Gold
Omega Vintage Gold
2,795 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
IWC Schaffhausen  Automatic
IWC Schaffhausen Automatic
4,250 
Seller
Gellot Oy Ltd
 
FI
Perrelet New Diamond Flower Gold
TOP
Perrelet New Diamond Flower Gold
8,850 
Free shipping
Seller
Istock LTD
112
LV
Piaget Polo Mother Of Pearl, Jumbo, Rare
TOP
Piaget Polo Mother Of Pearl, Jumbo, Rare
11,200 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Chopard Tank Handaufzug 2112 -Gold 18k/750
TOP
Chopard Tank Handaufzug 2112 -Gold 18k/750
1,900 
Seller
Dreamwatch Uhrenhandel
228
DE
Chopard Imperiale Ladies 18K 750er Rosègold
TOP
Chopard Imperiale Ladies 18K 750er Rosègold
8,149 
Seller
T&N "Glücksschmiede" GmbH
770
DE
Rolex Day-Date Tridor Dia Dial factory Bezel Orig. Brill Lünette
TOP
Rolex Day-Date Tridor Dia Dial factory Bezel Orig. Brill Lünette
19,523 
Seller
Luxus Ritter
92
DE
Rolex art deco cocktail watch
Rolex art deco cocktail watch
1,200 
Seller
Private Seller
 
FI
Frederique Constant Gentleman's Automatic Date Gold PL -...
TOP
Frederique Constant Gentleman's Automatic Date Gold PL -...
950 
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
212
NL
Omega De Ville Vintage
Omega De Ville Vintage
790 
Seller
Kaisaniemen Kello ja Kultaliike Oy
8
FI
IWC Big Pilot IW500402 White Gold
TOP
IWC Big Pilot IW500402 White Gold
13,950 
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
455
NL
Blancpain L-Evolution Reveil GMT
TOP
Blancpain L-Evolution Reveil GMT
20,100 
Free shipping
Seller
Istock LTD
112
LV
Zenith Movado Quartz
TOP
Zenith Movado Quartz
3,360 
Seller
Plus Ultra AG
 
CH
Piaget Rare 1970s Lilly Flower 18kt Diamond Sapphire Bracelet...
TOP
Piaget Rare 1970s Lilly Flower 18kt Diamond Sapphire Bracelet...
5,777 
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
21
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto
5,824 
Seller
Antichorloge
25
CH
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.

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